Introduction

This is the first version of a list of chemical substances, which one shall be especially aware of, that can be used in the production of clothes and textiles. The list has been prepared to be a practical help in production of and professional trading with textiles and clothes. The list will be a living document adjusted to the need of the users; it is our intention to develop it further as we gain experience from practical use of the list. Therefore, we are keenly interested in receiving comments from the users – what is your experience with the list in practical use, and what are your future requirements and wishes?

This English translation of the list of chemicals has been financially supported by The Federation of Norwegian Commercial and Service Enterprises (Handels- og Servicenæringens Hovedorganisasjon - HSH) and The Ethical Trading Initiative - Norway  (ETI-N).

A great number of chemicals that can be applied in the production of textiles and clothes show hazardous characteristics. There is no problem to increase the length of the list. However, the list shall be a useful tool for practical purposes to help business make demands to their suppliers. This implies that the list cannot be exhaustive – it must not be too long and complicated. There are no health or environmental Improvement in a complete list of undesirable chemicals if there are no practical use of the list. This list therefore, is a compromise between the request for a list as complete as possible, and a list of manageable size. Perhaps the list is already too big and complicated? As a user, you can influence the composition of future versions of the list by giving us your comments!

The List of Chemicals

The list has been prepared in two versions with identical information – the list presented on this web site (click on List of chemicals below) – and as an excel file that can be downloaded.

List of chemicals on web.

The list of chemicals as an excel file (download)

The list presented on this web site has been prepared as an Adobe Acrobate file. To read this file, an Adobe Reader must be installed on your computer. This can be downloaded free of charge from (http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep2.html). To make the list a bit more clearly set out and easy to read, the information on substances has been put in separate sublists in some groups of substances. In these cases, the user must click on the field that states the name of the actual group of substances, and the sublist will be shown in a window. In these cases, the name fields will be shown in a red frame, and the name of the group of substances will be underlined. An example is brominated flame retardants. Clicking on this name field, will open a new window listing all brominated flame retardants included in the list. To return to the main list, you must click the “Return” button on the screen.

The excel file for downloading is complete, and presents available information on all substances in one list, grouped under subheadings.

About the information on the list:
In the column Name, the individual chemical is identified by a term. What is regarded as the main name is stated. If there are synonyms or abbreviations, they are put in brackets. There are several ways to name chemicals – we have tried to use the most common ones.

The column CAS-nr. states the identification number for the substance or group of substances according to Chemical Abstract Service. We have not been able to find correct CAS No. for all chemicals listed.

The column Regulation states Norwegian regulations and official lists that applies to the chemical. This refers just to regulations and lists that are published by Norwegian authorities that applies to the substance used in textiles or clothing. The abbreviations that are used refer to specific regulations and lists, and are as follows:
  N Prodfor: Norwegian regulation concerning products (restrictions on use of health and environmental hazardous chemicals and products), laid down June 1. 2004. State Pollution Control Authority administers the regulation. This regulation totally prohibits some chemicals, some are subjects to general restrictions, and others are banned or restricted in specific applications.
  N Asbest: Norwegian regulation concerning asbestos prohibits import, production, trade and use of asbestos in Norway. The regulation is administered by the Norwegian Labour Inspection.
  N Avfall: Norwegian regulation relating to the recycling of waste. This regulation states among other things correct classification and treatment of waste, and is administered by the State pollution Control Authority.
  N Pri: List of substances that Norwegian authorities give preference to for considerable reduction or phasing out within a specified period. The substances stated in this list are also present as a part of the OBS list.
  N OBS: The Norwegian OBS list – a list of health and environmental hazardous substances that should be paid special attention to. This list is published by the State Pollution Control Authority, last updated in 2002.

An ”x” in the column Lovkrav (legal requirement) means that the substance is banned, or there is a legal concentration limit for this substance.

The column Process states typical applications for the respective substance, or group of substances related to textiles and clothing. We emphasise that a chemical may be used in several processes – the information stated must therefore be regarded as guidance – by no means as exhaustive.

The column Comments gives supplementary information about the substance or the group; for example if a maximum acceptable concentration in textiles has been established for the substance. Possible test methods may also be stated here. Please observe that different test methods may give totally different results. The information regarding test methods has not yet been quality assured, and must be regarded as a guide. In some cases the test method stated is the test method referred to in regulations that applies to the substance.

Links:

Regulations and lists published by Norwegian authorities:
The Norwegian product regulation (Regulation concerning restrictions in use of chemicals and products that may be harmful to health and environment). Only available in Norwegian.
The Norwegian asbestos regulation (total ban of all handling and use of asbestos). At present only available in Norwegian – a new English translation is under preparation.
Norwegian regulation concerning highly flammable textiles (highly flammable textiles and clothings are banned). Only available in Norwegian
Norwegian regulation concerning flammability of mattresses and upholstered furniture. Only available in Norwegian.
The Norwegian list of chemicals that environmental authorities give priority (PRI list, only available in Norwegian)
The Norwegian list of chemicals that require special attention (OBS list, only available in Norwegian)

Lists etc. providing requirements for textiles regarding chemicals from other organizations and enterprises:
EU: Commission decision of 15 May 2002 establishing the ecological criteria for the award of the Community eco-label to textile products. Criteria for the official eco-label, the flower.
The Swan: The official Nordic eco-label. Criteria version 3.0 of 18 March 2004. These criteria includes the criteria for EU’s eco-label; however there are some additional requirements to be fulfilled to gain this label.
Öko-Tex 100: Privately owned standard with requirements regarding content of chemicals in clothes and textiles. Products that meet this requirement can receive the Öko-Tex 100 label. Main focus in these requirements is on health effects.
Swedish ”Guide to buying terms for chemical content in textiles, clothing, leather goods and shoes”, published by Textilimportörerna, 2003.

”Restricted Substances List. For Substances in Finished Apparel Products”, published by Business for Social Responsibility. Version 2: May 2004. This list consists of three parts:

1. Primary Restricted Substances List – substances that appear on this list are based on global legislation, have been used in textile processing, and have been found in finished products.
2. Supplementary List – substances that appear on this list are based on global legislation, but are not commonly found in finished products.
3. Best Practice – substances that appear on this list are not restricted in apparel products by global legislation, but may be based on potential legislation or voluntary restrictions by some companies.

Hennes & Mauritz Restricted Chemical Substance List. BSR’s list is to a great extent based on the list prepared by Hennes & Mauritz. The company also present other information related to chemicals.
IKEA: Specification, Chemical Compounds and Substances (IOS-MAT-0010, 2003-09-05) and Guide to specification IOS-MAT.0010 (2003-02-24).
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